By Tan May Ping, 16 July 2005
The New Paper

The yum phak boong krob or deep fried crispy kang kong (top) is impressive. So is the kaeng phed talay or seafood soup cooked in a young coconut. For a sweet ending try the red ruby (bottom).

THE decor may be sleek and understated at this Thai eatery but the fireworks are certainly on the table.

At Waan Waan Thai Restaurant & Cafe, which specialises in traditional Thai fare, one's tastebuds are treated to an explosion of different flavours in the various dishes, each strong and distinctive.

The staple dishes such as tom yum soup and curry are good, but it's the lesser known Thai selections that really impresses.

Each meal starts out with rice crackers served with a unique Thai dip, very much like thick satay gravy.

The starters were excellent.

I was quite taken in by the yum phak boong krob (deep fried crispy kangkong). The kang kong strips were lightly battered, tempura style and tossed with a spicy and sour seafood sauce and morsels of fresh seafood.

Those who prefer more texture can sample the yum ta-khai (lemongrass and dried shrimp salad).

The spicy shredded lemongrass and dried coconut concoction, wrapped in pieces of lettuce, certainly packed a punch.

Another unique dish that got the thumbs up was the kaeng phed talay (seafood soup cooked in a young coconut). Served in the coconut, the soup was closer to a rich and creamy curry-flavoured gravy.

The tangy tom yum koong (spicy and sour clear soup with prawn) was not spectacular. The milky tom kha kai (chicken served in coconut milk-based soup) was a more interesting selection.

Other dishes we sampled included the phad ma kue yao (Thai eggplant with minced chicken) and phad nuea nam phrik thai dam (sliced beef in black pepper sauce), which were delicious by most standards.

Some dishes may be too spicy, but the three Thai chefs will happily oblige by preparing something more agreeable to your tastebuds

Or perhaps, try a cooling drink like lemongrass juice or lotus root juice. They were a pleasant respite from the fiery food and just the way I like it - light and not too sweet.

As for desserts, the red ruby and glutinous rice with mango dishes were certainly a fitting end to a good meal.

The red ruby pieces had a light pandan aftertaste, which was different from those I have tasted.

Waan Waan also serves Western desserts such as tiramisu and mango pudding, and premium coffee and tea.

If you're looking for a moderately-priced sampling of its dishes, try one of the eight set lunches ($10.90 each) on weekdays from 11am to 3pm.

There is also a weekend a la carte buffet from 11.30am to 3pm for $18.80. For children below 12 it's $9.80.

Waan Waan Thai Restaurant & café
Marina Square CenterStage #02-138E
11am to 11pm daily