By Teo Pau Lin, 20 November 2005
Sunday Times

CHEESY AFFAIR: Try the cheese ramen (above) at Tampopo (top).

IT TAKES a brave man to call his restaurant Tampopo.

A Japanese word that means 'dandelion', Tampopo is also the name of a 1985 Japanese comedy that revolves around the art of making ramen.

But Mr Takaaki Takagi, 53, isn't worried about his year-old restaurant in Liang Court not living up to what is widely considered one of the best food movies ever made.

'I am confident about my ramen,' he says simply.

Like the characters in the movie who go to great lengths to create a perfect bowl of ramen, he says the soup that goes into his bestselling kyushu ramen ($12.80) is brewed for two whole days.

'No joke,' he insists. The time is needed to bring out the full flavour of pork bones, making the soup creamy white. It is then served with pork slices, spicy cod roe, boiled egg and black fungus.

A former chief executive officer of drinks giant Pokka Corporation Singapore, the affable Mr Takagi left the corporate world two years ago to pursue his passion in food.

Cooking has always been a hobby, he says. Branching into the restaurant business seemed a logical - and pleasurable - choice.

He bought over the basement unit from Nanto restaurant, which had served general Japanese fare for over 20 years.

He also bought over the Tsuru Tsuru Tei udon shop, a take-away counter and a beancurd shop at the basement.

He revamped Tampopo's menu by offering more variety and greater authenticity.

From this Thursday, he will offer cheese ramen ($14.80) to coincide with the annual Hokkaido Fair held at Meidi-Ya supermarket on the same floor.

As odd as it may sound and taste, it is actually a mesmerising brew of pork bone soup, served with beef strips, onions, Chinese wolfberries, basil leaves, parmesan cheese and a huge dollop of mozzarella cheese, which is meant to be stirred into the broth.

The Hokkaido speciality packs a rich, satisfying punch that is equal parts Japanese, Chinese and Italian.

He will put it on the permanent menu if it sells well during the 11-day fair - and one gets the feeling that it will.

Another must-try are his tonkatsu items (deep-fried pork, fish or vegetables). Beautifully breaded and fried, each piece is light, tender and not oily.

Options include dory fish ($3.50), special pork loin ($16) and various other combinations.

The desserts are good too. Try the Scoop Shortcake ($5 for a portion) which has gorgeous whipped cream, strawberries and orange pieces lathered over soft, moist cake.

After a meal here, you'd want to watch the movie - then come back again and eat.

Tampopo
#B1-50 Liang Court Shopping Centre
Tel: 6338-3186
Opens: 11.30am to 10pm daily.